Zucchini pinching shoots. How to grow big zucchini? Basic care: fertilizing, pinching, watering and harvesting! Agricultural technology for growing zucchini in seedlings

Pinching ( pinching, topping, pinching) is the removal of the top of a young shoot above the leaf (growth point).

You can pinch with your fingers, but it is better to use scissors.

When a growing point is removed, the plant will immediately begin to form new ones, sometimes one, but usually two or more.

Why do pinching?

The main goal of this very important manipulation is to increase and improve the yield.

And it needs to be done in a timely and correct manner. The tops of the shoot must be pinched above the leaf that formed after the last inflorescence of those needed for the ripening of the crop has ripened.

Each plant has its own growing season, but there is one rule: topping should be done no later than three weeks from the planned date of the last mass harvest of fruits.

How to pinch cucumbers

The need to pinch cucumbers is caused by the specific feature of planting predominantly male flowers on the main stem of the plant (they are more often called barren flowers).

Female flowers appear mainly on the side shoots, and their appearance can only be achieved by pinching the main stem. In addition, pinching significantly increases yield. Today, varieties have already been bred whose main stem is covered with female flowers. But then there is a problem with men's. And you can also provoke their appearance by pinching the head stem.

If, for example, the plant is a hybrid or varietal, then you need to remove the tops above the sixth leaf, and only 3 shoots will need to be left, but the rest needs to be cut off. On a regular variety you need 1 stem, and weak shoots should be removed completely.

Pinching tomatoes (tomatoes)

Pinching a pumpkin

The number of fruits per cane should not exceed 3 pieces, even better 2, this can significantly speed up their ripening and also improve the quality of the fruit (and, importantly, their keeping quality). When they have finally set and begun to fill out, you can pinch off the main stem and long side shoots (they are not fruitful).

Or you can orient all the shoots in one direction, leaving only 1 fruit. In this case, it is better to sprinkle the internodes of the plant with humus.

Note to the gardener:

Pinching potatoes

Removing the tips of potato shoots before budding begins (tip 2-3 cm) increases tuberization. The resulting fruits, when planted next year, will produce a “rejuvenated” and healthier harvest.

If 80% of the male shoots are not removed (they do not bloom), the cucumbers will taste bitter. But you shouldn’t pick them off - they provide nutrients to the fruits.

About pinching in detail:

Cucumber

Not every group of varieties needs editing of the growing plant. There is practically no need to form parthenocarpic varieties of the female flowering type (for example, Graceful), but old mid- and late-ripening varieties, especially in greenhouses, have to be formed:

• Usually the plant is left with one stem, which is pinched off above the eighth leaf.

• After this, after 4-5 days, the plant forms side shoots, of which no more than five are left and pinched again, above the fifth leaf, and the main vine is tied up.

This is simple, but one of the most effective and proven methods.

Pinching eggplant

Subtleties begin in the seedling period:

Growing plants should not close their leaves.

When the fifth leaf has fully developed, pinch the growth point, the “little blue” ones will begin to branch. Leave the three strongest shoots of the second order.

After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, pinch them after 2-3 ovaries appear on them.

Remove all lower leaves up to the first fork, and remove axillary shoots.

And remember that eggplant is the most light-loving of all our vegetables; too many leaves and too close placement of adult plants are not at all beneficial for it.

As the fruits ripen, they become so heavy that they can overwhelm the entire bush: they need supports!

They played smart with the soil and seeds and grew good seedlings. They planted them at the right time, in a good greenhouse and in the right soil. We water, we field, we fertilize and we rub our hands, watching how the tops bush. But no flowers, no ovaries, just greenery... What's wrong? The problem is that many varieties of vegetables need to be shaped. Most varieties will produce maximum yield only with the correct system of pinching shoots and a certain placement of plants on the ridge and on the support. A kind of garden architecture! There are some general rules, a kind of reference points: the fewer shoots, the faster the first fruit will ripen, but the total yield per plant is smaller and the fruiting period is shorter. Plus the weather. Both have to be taken into account and a middle ground must be found. And each culture has its own principles of formation.

Sweet pepper - pinching

Rule one: sweet peppers are fragile and require delicate handling.

Rule two: low-growing varieties are not pinched at all; they themselves cope well with their figure.

Medium-sized ones (up to half a meter) are deprived of side shoots and leaves before the first fork, and this is where the formation ends.

The most fuss with tall peppers (like Kakadu) in greenhouses:

• When such a client reaches a height of approximately 20 cm, the top is pinched. and due to axillary shoots, a bush begins to form.

• No more than four shoots are left on the plant; they should be placed symmetrically in the “crown” of your pepper “tree”. All other axillary shoots are plucked out in infancy.

• No more than three ovaries are left on each skeletal shoot, and it is preferable to pick the fruits at the stage of technical ripeness.

Since the shoots are very fragile, do not forget to promptly place supports (for example, forks made of willow branches) under the ripening fruits (especially large-fruited varieties).

Pinching tomatoes

There are varieties with limited and unlimited growth (determinate and indeterminate). Many determinant ones do not require formation at all, forming no or almost no axillary shoots - stepchildren. And all the principles of “designing” a tomato bush are based on regulating the number of shoots and the number of inflorescences on them. This is especially true for indeterminate greenhouse varieties, formed into one stem with five inflorescences:

• In the morning we break out all the stepsons (at this time they break off well) until they reach a length of 5 cm, and remove all the side shoots, and in the second half of summer, 2/3 of the leaves: the plants should be well ventilated, this will largely save them from fungal diseases, in particular late blight.

• When all the flower clusters have formed ovaries the size of a pea, the bush must be pinched: there is no need to drive away the tops, raise children!

• If for one reason or another your planting is thickened, the plants can be formed into two stems, pinching them above the third flower cluster. To do this, you can leave one lower stepson. Provided that all others are completely and regularly removed!

Tomatoes have a curious feature: when planted thickly, they bear fruit better than when planted sparsely! And the optimal distance between plants is usually indicated on the seed packet of each variety.

Growing zucchini in open ground and caring for them requires compliance with a number of rules. Despite the unpretentiousness of the crop, only pre-treatment of seeds and agricultural technology give good yield of zucchini. Ripe fruits are suitable for use in many culinary recipes due to the presence of a vitamin and mineral complex in the composition.

For proper crop growth, a list of preparatory measures is required, including selection and processing of seed material. Growing zucchini from seeds prepared for planting allows you to grow large fruits with tender and juicy pulp. When planting directly, compliance with agrotechnical practices is a mandatory requirement.

Soil preparation

When choosing a suitable location for the bed, you should take into account the heat-loving nature of this crop. It is better to grow zucchini outdoors in open areas with good natural light, away from trees with dense vegetation and buildings that can block the passage of ultraviolet rays throughout the day. It is also necessary to take into account the terrain of the area, since cold lowlands and areas with draft winds are not suitable for vegetables.

To increase the yield of zucchini, you need to analyze the soil composition and adjust it by applying fertilizing.

The following types of soil are available:

1. Peat bogs. Before planting zucchini, treatment with compost or humus is required. After fertilizing, you need to dig the ground to a depth of 20 centimeters and level the surface with a rake. After watering the garden bed, you should cover it with polyethylene.
2. Loams. To correct the soil composition, it is enough to add a mixture of peat and sawdust as fertilizer.
3. Supeski. In order for a vegetable crop to produce a large harvest, it is recommended to add peat, loam, humus and ash to the soil.
4. Fertile black soil. The beds should be loosened and treated with a mixture of superphosphate and sawdust.
5. Undeveloped area. The soil in such areas requires careful loosening, removal of vegetation residues and disinfection. Compost, nitrophoska and ash are suitable as top dressing.

Crop rotation and compatibility with other crops

Accelerated growth and production of large fruits is facilitated by the selection of suitable preceding crops. It is better to plant bush zucchini after cabbage, legumes, tomatoes, onions and potatoes. It is not recommended to grow zucchini after pumpkin and any varieties of cucumbers.

The rules of agricultural technology for growing zucchini also require ensuring crop rotation. It is prohibited to grow zucchini on the same land for two seasons in a row. Pumpkin crops should not be placed in the garden at the same time as zucchini.

It is allowed to grow zucchini in different parts vegetable gardens, using small unoccupied areas. It is important that such areas are located in a lighted and warm place.

Preparing zucchini seeds

Before sowing zucchini in the ground, the main measure is the correct choice of seed material. It can be obtained from the previous planting or purchased at gardening stores. When using homemade seeds, you should check them for germination. To do this, you need to dip the material in a weakly concentrated solution of potassium permanganate, and soak the specimens that have sunk to the bottom in a growth stimulator for 20 minutes. Then the selected seeds should be rinsed in water and wrapped in a damp cloth.

After the seed material swells, until roots appear, it must be kept in a cold place for 2 days. Then the seeds left in the fabric should dry naturally. The material becomes suitable for planting when root shoots develop. As a rule, sowing is carried out starting in mid-July.

The procedure for sowing zucchini in open ground

Zucchini is considered an unpretentious vegetable that ripens quickly and produces its first shoots 7-10 days after planting. The crop can be planted in seedlings or directly into the ground. When growing in soil, you need to follow simple instructions:

1. Dig holes in the ground 3-7 centimeters deep at a distance of about 70 centimeters from each other. There should be no more than three holes for zucchini on one square of land.
2. Place seed (2-4 seeds) in each hole and cover with soil.
3. When planting zucchini in the spring, you should cover the beds to prevent possible frosts. When the temperature is right for the zucchini, the covering material can be removed.
4. If several seeds sprout in one hole, it is necessary to leave the most developed zucchini shoot.

Plant in open ground Early and late ripening varieties of vegetables are needed at different periods. Early varieties of zucchini can be sown from the beginning of May, and late varieties - in the first 10 days of summer. Agricultural technology for growing any variety of zucchini allows for replanting during the season with an interval of 5-6 days.

Agricultural technology for growing zucchini in open ground

The condition for growing a large crop is compliance with agrotechnical techniques throughout all stages of crop maturation. Proper agricultural technology directly affects the number of fruits ripening at the time of harvest. Caring for plants does not require a special approach and consists of systematic watering, weeding and fertilizing. It is necessary to provide care for vegetables before and during flowering, as well as when the first mature zucchini appears.

Caring for zucchini before flowering

In order for zucchini to form many ovaries, it is necessary to fertilize the seedlings before the plants begin to flower. After the emergence of seedlings, you need to treat the beds with mineral fertilizer by mixing one tablespoon of nitrogen additive in 10 liters of settled water. The solution is applied in an amount of 1 liter per bush.

Caring for zucchini bushes using organic matter also has a positive effect on the subsequent formation of the root system and above-ground parts of the plants. An infusion of nettle or a solution of fresh manure with water is suitable as an organic fertilizer. It is necessary to water zucchini with organic matter at the root, preventing solutions from getting onto the surface of the leaves. To achieve the greatest efficiency, it is allowed to alternate the application of fertilizers containing mineral and organic components.

How to feed zucchini during flowering

During intensive flowering of the crop, it is necessary to attract harmless insects that will begin to pollinate the bushes. For this purpose, foliar feeding with a sweetened solution is necessary. You can prepare fertilizer by mixing one spoon of honey or refined sugar in a glass of warm water and adding 2 spoons of superphosphate. The product attracts bees and other pollinating insects.

A solution is used to spray the ground part of the bushes with zucchini. Performing this procedure contributes to the formation of many ovaries. Before treating seedlings during flowering, it is recommended to remove a couple of large leaves from the central part of the bushes to provide additional ventilation and free passage for insects to the inflorescences.

How to care for zucchini during fruiting

When the crop begins to bear fruit, it is necessary to use additional agricultural techniques for growing zucchini. In particular, it is necessary:

• visually inspect the beds daily to promptly remove weeds;
• remove plants affected by diseases so that the infection does not spread to the fruits;
• manually remove large insects from fruits.

The procedure for caring for zucchini to increase fruitfulness during fruiting also involves the use of special fertilizers. Feeding zucchini with organic matter helps increase the yield. During the fruiting period, the crop requires a growth stimulator, which must be applied 10-12 days after the previous feeding in a ratio of 2 liters of solution per 10 square meters of land. Also suitable for fertilizer is a urea solution prepared in proportions - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, with the expectation of using 1 liter for each bush.

Watering

Keeping the soil moist is one of the conditions for proper crop growth and growing a large crop. Zucchini needs systematic watering with a warm solution. Watering is carried out at the root, since liquid on the surface of the leaves can cause sunburn. Before the inflorescences appear, it is recommended to moisten the beds once a week, and after the ovaries form, double the amount of watering. 5-10 liters of water should be poured onto each bush, depending on the condition of the soil. When watering plants, it is important to consider the following points:

• Water for the beds must be collected in advance so that it has time to settle. If you use unsettled water, the seedlings may begin to rot.
• Despite the fact that zucchini likes to absorb large amounts of water when growing, excess saturation with moisture leads to damage to the root system.

• By regularly checking the condition of the soil, you will be able to determine the seedlings' need for watering.
• If the leaves on the bushes close due to improper watering, you should add a soil mixture of compost and peat to the soil, spreading a layer up to 5 centimeters high.
• If the leaves turn yellow and fall further, it is necessary to increase the amount of watering.
• Cannot be used for watering cold water, since when exposed to liquid with a low temperature, the root system begins to rot.

Caring for zucchini in open ground

Any vegetable crop requires maintaining the soil in a favorable condition. The process of caring for vegetables planted in open ground involves not only watering and regular inspection, but also loosening the soil. The soil must be loosened with extreme care, since the root system of vegetables is located in the upper part of the soil, and careless actions can damage it.

The quality of the harvest largely depends on the presence of weeds in the beds. If weeds grow near the bushes, the crop will not be able to fully develop and form fruits. When caring, it is important not only to remove foreign vegetation from the beds, but also to cultivate the space between the rows using a hoe.

Diseases and pests, methods of protection and prevention

Negative external influences, unsuitable climate or violation of rules for caring for zucchini lead to the development of diseases and the appearance of insects. The list of common plant diseases includes:

1. Powdery mildew. The fungal disease spreads from other plants to zucchini through the air or rainwater. When affected by the fungus, the leaves of affected plants turn yellow, wither and dry out. The formation of plaque on the leaves slows down the processes of photosynthesis.
2. Root rot. Due to the effects of the disease, the roots of the plant acquire a dark shade and gradually rot. As a result of the progression of the fungus, the development of zucchini completely stops. The causes of root rot are waterlogging of the soil and poor-quality sterilization of seed material.
3. Anthracnose. If during the growing season dark yellow spots appear on the leaves of zucchini, gradually spreading to the entire above-ground part, there is a risk of contracting this disease. If there is no fight against infection, the fruits wrinkle, acquire a bitter taste and lose their elasticity.

Pests that can harm zucchini seedlings often include melon aphids, spider mites, flies and other insects. Large pests can be detected when inspecting the beds, and the presence of smaller ones is indicated by gnawed holes on the leaves and the appearance of larvae.

To protect against the influence of diseases and pests, it is recommended to treat beds with zucchini with insecticidal and fungicidal fertilizers. Large pests should be removed manually before treatment. When using a large number of pesticides, it is important to take into account the manufacturers’ recommendations and the decomposition period of the active ingredients. If insects remain on the beds after spraying, the treatment is carried out twice.

For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to adhere to the rules of crop rotation and correctly select previous crops, follow basic rules of care, and regularly inspect plantings to detect pests and signs of disease.

Harvesting and storing zucchini

There are no exact dates for harvesting the squash crop, since the fruits can be picked as they ripen throughout the season. The first vegetables ripen within 1.5-2 months after planting. In cooking, it is allowed to use young zucchini fruits up to 20 centimeters in size, but only ripe zucchini are suitable for long-term storage. The difference between ripe specimens is their dense and hard crust.

It is better to harvest zucchini using a sharp knife. By tearing off the fruits by hand, you can accidentally damage the stem, which will stop growth. Young specimens are cut off at the base, and mature specimens are cut off along with the stalk.

The zucchini harvest must be stored in a cool place. If you leave young zucchini for storage in the refrigerator, you should keep in mind that they will last no more than 2 weeks without losing their beneficial qualities. You can also leave early vegetables on the balcony, after wrapping them in plastic wrap. Fully ripe specimens can be stored for up to 6 months.

The place where the fruits will lie must have good ventilation and low humidity. The harvest should be packaged in wooden boxes, having previously covered the bottom with pine sawdust. Vegetables should not come into contact with each other throughout the entire storage period. To prevent the development of diseases and the appearance of bacteria, it is recommended to dip the stems of vegetables in hot paraffin.

It is undesirable to violate the recommended shelf life of zucchini, since over time the vegetables lose their taste characteristics. In addition, with the onset of spring, the seeds of the crop begin to germinate. By following basic storage rules, you will be able to have fresh vegetables for use in various areas for a long time.

People have been growing zucchini on their plots for a long time. The vegetable bears fruit well, is quite unpretentious, and is often used in cooking. It has dietary qualities, while being tasty. Zucchini can be stewed, fried, stuffed, canned, or cooked with caviar. But still, when growing zucchini, it is worth considering some factors so that they please you with a good harvest.

Perhaps this is where we should start growing zucchini. After all, the success of the harvest largely depends on the choice of variety! Not every variety is suitable for a certain climate and soil.

With proper care, any of the varieties will delight you with their harvest. The main thing is to follow some simple rules.

Proper preparation of beds

This vegetable can be called demanding on soil fertility. You will have to apply different fertilizers based on the composition of the soil.

If you need to develop a new area for zucchini, then remove any roots from the ground at the time of digging, and remove the larvae of the cockchafer, if any are found. In the first year after planting, three kilos of humus, a spoon of nitrophoska, and two of wood ash are added. Compost will be suitable instead of humus. Next, dig up the area and water it with liquid fertilizer.

Seed preparation

It is important to properly treat the seeds before planting. First, warm them up so that the seedlings grow more smoothly and the yield increases. To do this, just leave the bag of seeds on a warm radiator overnight. Don't forget to discard the ugly, empty seeds!

After this, soak the seeds in warm water - they should swell. Place it between layers of fabric, after slightly wetting it. Just don’t use gauze - the nimble roots of the seeds will simply get tangled in it!

After 4-5 days at room temperature, the seeds will reach a length of several centimeters. At this stage, they need to be planted in open ground so that the roots do not intertwine with each other!

Sow seeds correctly

Planting seeds for seedlings is usually carried out in two periods (depending on climatic conditions). If you live in the west-east region - May 1-10, and in the south - in the second or third ten days of April. After 5-30 days, the seedlings can begin to be planted in the prepared soil.

Note: it is advisable to start sowing in cloudy weather!

Landing is very simple:

Proper planting of seeds is already half the battle, which will provide you with high yields! These rules should not be neglected.

Video - Planting zucchini seedlings in the ground

How to water

Regular watering is required - avoid getting liquid on the foliage, pour it under the root. Before flowering, water once a week (five liters per square meter). When the fruiting period begins, increase watering - twice a week with ten liters of warm water. You can’t do without watering completely, otherwise you can’t count on getting a bountiful harvest. And during drought, the leaves and inflorescences will quickly dry out and fall off.

Note: avoid watering with cold water, otherwise there is a risk that the young ovaries will begin to rot!

Growing zucchini does not require hilling and loosening - this harms the root system, which is located quite high!

Don't forget about fertilizers and pollination

Feeding should be regular.

In addition to these feedings, provide foliar nutrition during the fruiting period: sprinkle the above-ground part with a ready-made solution of 10 liters of water with 10 g of the drug Bud. Frequency: once every ten days.

Female flowers require pollination. In the morning, spray the flowers with a honey solution (a glass of plain water + a spoonful of honey) to attract bumblebees and bees. If insects are not pollinating your flowering squash due to bad weather, do it yourself. Pick off the male flowers and use them to pollinate the female flowers. The strength of one such flower is enough to pollinate three female ones.

Video - Pollination of zucchini

Getting rid of pests

This crop needs to be protected from pests and all kinds of diseases. Of course, when growing tasty fruits in open ground, there is a risk of encountering many common diseases and pests. Perhaps powdery mildew, melon aphids and sprout flies can be called the most common pests. But you can also encounter white or root aphids, whiteflies, and mites.

Diseases can be prevented by following the rules of crop rotation. Remove affected fruits and plant debris in a timely manner. Treat diseased plants with sodium phosphate, colloidal sulfur, mullein solution or hay infusion. And against insects it will help you effective means: Confidor, Iskra.

Collecting fruits

Early, mid or late ripening vegetables differ in their ripening time. Fruits can begin to be harvested on the twentieth day after flowering. They will be small in size, but often such zucchini are canned, and zucchini caviar is already prepared from large ones.

Don't miss the moment when the zucchini is completely ripe; if it gets too ripe, it will lose its flavor. Determine the degree of ripeness yourself: tap the fruit, if the skin is hard enough, dense to the touch, and the sound is dull, then the vegetable is ripe.

You can store zucchini for up to five months in the cellar; during this period they do not lose their consumer characteristics!

Zucchini is a type of pumpkin that has an oblong shape with a yellowish-green color. This delicious fruit has been known to humanity for hundreds of years. And it is so popular due to its dietary composition. Moreover, the Tokay product is very healthy and is recommended for use even by small children.

Therefore, given its enormous benefits for the human body, many novice gardeners are interested in what they need to know about such a crop as zucchini, growing and caring for it in open ground. Below we will look at all the stages of growing this delicious fruit, and how to preserve such a dietary yummy for future use.

How to get a good harvest from seeds

How to get early harvest zucchini

Planting zucchini in open ground

What should it be proper care for squash crop

Watering the plant

We carry out the correct feeding

Preventative treatment

Whitefly

Slugs

Conclusion

How to get a good harvest from seeds

Growing zucchini in open ground can be done in two ways: sow the seeds directly into the soil or pre-grow seedlings and plant with small sprouts. The method, based on obtaining a good harvest using seedlings, allows you to enjoy zucchini earlier than when planting seeds.

But at the same time, this method also has a negative side, the whole point is that the fruits obtained from seedlings are unsuitable for long-term storage. Therefore, the entire harvested crop will have to be urgently processed.

Well, if you need zucchini for long-term storage, then you should plant the seeds in open ground in early May, when the temperature is suitable.

How to plant zucchini? Everything is very simple: the key to a generous harvest will be properly completed preparatory work. Despite the fact that zucchini does not require care or special attention, some manipulations still have to be performed, namely:

1. The first stage: keeping the seeds in the refrigerator for 10 hours.
2. Second stage: keep the seeds at room temperature for 10 hours.
3. Third stage: soak the seed in warm water for a day.

These steps are aimed at strengthening the seed material and giving impetus to the rapid germination of young growth.

Separately, it is worth highlighting such an important detail as preparing the soil for planting squash. It is worth noting that they are trying to perform this manipulation in the fall. Such preparatory work is carried out according to the following plan:

1. The selected area is dug up to the depth of a bayonet.
2. Carefully remove all the roots of the weeds and take them out of the area.
3. Then fertilizing is applied in the form of rotted humus and wood ash.

These simple manipulations will help make the soil rich in useful components over the winter, which will make it possible to harvest a good harvest in the spring. If the gardener did not have time to prepare the soil for spring planting, such manipulation can be carried out in the spring, as soon as the snow has completely melted and the appropriate temperature has established.

The agricultural technology of growing zucchini in open ground is not complicated, the main thing is to strictly follow all the recommendations.

How to get an early harvest of zucchini

If a gardener wants to get an early harvest of this crop, then you can use sprouts grown with your own hands. In this case, preparing the seed is similar to planting zucchini seeds in the soil. To do this, you will need to soak the seeds in water until they develop small sprouts.

When choosing soil for seedlings, it is better to give preference to a neutral mixture. Or you can make the soil yourself; for this you will need to take the following components:

• peat soil 40%;
• rotted humus 20%;
• turf land 20%;
• bird droppings 10%;
• sawdust 10%.

All components are thoroughly mixed and placed in pre-prepared cups. Then the prepared containers with soil are filled with boiling water and after that they begin to plant the sprouted squash seeds.

How to plant? For each prepared container, a pair of seeds are sown, which are buried a couple of centimeters, and then covered with polyethylene or ordinary glass.

This manipulation will need to be carried out four weeks before the intended planting in the soil. Depending on the region of residence, this could be either April or early May, the main thing is that the air temperature allows it.

As for the question of how to pinch zucchini, this manipulation will be superfluous for zucchini seedlings. The thing is that zucchini tolerates pickling rather negatively, which is why they are sown immediately in separate special cups.

Moreover, if a couple of grains were sown in each container and they all sprouted, then pinching must be done by removing the weaker plant.

Well, in the case when planting is done with seeds in the ground, caring for zucchini in the open ground, pinching it is also a mandatory procedure.

Planting zucchini in open ground

As described above, growing zucchini in open ground is not a difficult task, but it requires certain manipulations. Planting of young animals at a permanent location is carried out three weeks after the first shoots appear in the containers.

As a rule, this time falls at the end of May or beginning of June, when the threat of night frosts is behind us.

How to grow zucchini: it is better to choose an area for planting zucchini that is sunny and protected from strong winds. It is also worth noting that there are crops after which it is better not to plant zucchini, namely:

• squash;
• pumpkin;
• cucumbers

It is not recommended to plant zucchini in the place where these crops grew for three years. This is how long it will take for the soil to restore its nutrients.

It is worth noting that the following crops are considered good neighbors:

• parsley;
• tomatoes;
• onion and garlic;
• potato tubers;
• radishes and carrots.

When starting to plant squash, you need to make holes in such a way that for each square meter there were no more than three planted sprouts. Before sowing seeds or seedlings, you should add fertilizer in the form of a small pinch of ash.

If planting is carried out as seedlings, then the root is carefully removed from the container and, without clearing the soil, it is transplanted to a permanent location, having previously buried each sprout to the cotyledon leaf. Then the young growth is sprinkled with soil and compacted thoroughly. When all the young plants are planted, water generously.

What should be the proper care for squash?

Another important question is how to care for zucchini in open ground. Caring for this crop is the simplest and relatively easy job for a gardener. To get a good harvest, it is enough to ensure regular moistening and removal of weeds between the rows until the squash bushes rise.

There is one secret that experienced gardeners call growing zucchini in a cunning way. This method involves mulching each sprout when planting young trees. This manipulation helps solve two problems at once, namely: watering and weeding.

Mulch helps retain moisture for a long time, which makes it possible not to carry water to the site if there are no hoses. Moreover, mulch is also an excellent plant protector from various weeds. If the young growth has been mulched, then the gardener only needs to do one weeding, and when the plant rises, it will kill the weed itself.

There are different secrets to growing zucchini in order to get a good harvest. And one of them is independent pollination of flowering plants. Sometimes the following can happen: the flowering period has arrived, but the bees are in no hurry to fly to the garden bed for natural pollination.

In this case, a novice gardener will need to do the following: carefully examine each squash flower and find the one that does not form an ovary - this will be a male bud. It is necessary to pick it, remove all the petals and touch the open feminine flowers with the naked pistils.

This procedure is done for every three flowers. This will help to grow a full-fledged crop in the garden.

Watering the plant

How to grow zucchini correctly? The key to successful cultivation is regular hydration. This procedure is best performed with water pre-heated by the sun.

At the same time, in extreme heat, moisturizing should be done daily until the spreading leaves of the zucchini cover the soil, after which watering is carried out once a week.

As for the time of day, the plant should be watered at sunset. Some gardeners recommend moisturizing the plant in the morning, but such advice will do more harm than good. The fact is that if you moisten at this time of day, there is a high probability that the plant will simply burn under the scorching sun.

We carry out the correct feeding

Another important question is how, agricultural technology for growing zucchini, fertilizer. This crop is easy to grow and does not require regular care, but if the gardener does a couple of feedings during the season, then this tasty vegetable will definitely reward you with a generous harvest.

And to perform such a manipulation, you do not need to buy expensive special drugs. You can do the fertilizing yourself; this will require the following components:

• tub;
• weed clippings;
• water;
• potassium permanganate.

Water is poured into the bucket by eye, then potassium permanganate is added to it in such a volume that a weak solution is obtained. Next, all the cut weed is sent to a bucket of water and mixed thoroughly.

Let this fertilizing brew for a week, and then begin fertilizing the squash crop with it.
With the help of this fertilizer, plants are fertilized three times per season, namely:

1. The first subcortex is carried out a week after planting the seeds.
2. The second feeding is done when flowers appear on the squash bushes.
3. And the third is performed 10 days after re-feeding.

How to grow a good harvest there is only one answer to this question, devote a little time to this crop, and it will definitely please you with a good harvest.

Preventative treatment

To grow strong zucchini, it is necessary to take certain preventive measures. Very often, this plant is susceptible to various pests or defects that can completely ruin the harvest. Of course, it will not be possible to avoid absolutely all unpleasant surprises, but most of them will still be avoided.

How to grow zucchini so that they are not affected by various defects? To do this, you can use Bordeaux solution. Preventive soil treatment is carried out a week after planting young trees. And also immediately after harvest.

It is worth repeating that such a measure will not completely protect the plant from defects, but it will help to avoid many.

The peculiarities of growing zucchini lie in simple manipulations, such as:

It is worth noting that, despite following the rules for planting and caring for this plant, the squash crop can still get sick. And in order to promptly identify and overcome an emerging defect, you will need, as they say, to know the enemy by sight.

So, what are zucchini susceptible to and how to deal with the defects that appear:

1. If a gray coating is found on the plant, it means the crop has been attacked powdery mildew. This defect is dangerous because the leaves gradually dry out and the fruits stop growing. This defect develops as a result of strong moisture. If this disease is noticed, the bed should be immediately treated with a solution of one of the fungicides.
2. When rust-like spots appear on the leaves, this is a signal that the zucchini has been affected by black mold. The result of this defect is complete drying of the ovary and leaves. Unfortunately, if such a disease affects a squash bush, it is impossible to save it. The only thing a gardener should do is to urgently get rid of the diseased bush and thoroughly treat it with a special preparation.
3. When spots of oily origin appear, the gardener must urgently begin to take action, since this is developing a defect called bacteriosis. The leaves on which this dangerous disease appears gradually begin to turn black and affect the fruits. The reason for the development of such a defect is high humidity warm air. And Bordeaux mixture will help get rid of such a disease.
4. If the squash fruits suddenly begin to turn yellow, and at the same time the lower leaves wither, then this is a signal that the plant is being attacked by root rot. This defect affects precisely those plants that were planted in unheated soil or the soil was moistened with cold water. A special preparation containing copper will help get rid of this disease.

Such defects are the most common, but if you timely process and visually inspect each squash bush, this will help avoid all of the above-described defects. It is important to understand that caring for zucchini is a kind of struggle and in order to emerge victorious you need to take action.

Aphid

They get rid of this problem with plain water, simply washing off the whiteflies. Well, in the case when such a measure does not bring results, it is better to use special medications, which can be purchased at any specialized store.

Slugs

Conclusion

And in conclusion, it remains to add that even the most inexperienced gardener can grow zucchini in open ground. This is an amazing culture that is worth keeping in your dacha.

The main thing is that you need to adhere to a few simple rules, and in this case a generous harvest will definitely please the gardener, so let’s grow it together and let your country cottage area pleased with the grown crop.