To replace the alternator belt tensioner, you will need the following tools:It should be borne in mind that the tensioner roller is sold both separately and together with the tensioner. Pay attention to this when ordering.
- pliers (pliers),
- screwdriver,
- ring wrench or knob with a head for 15,
- key for 12
- long head 12 with a collar
- key for 10.
Roller SKUs:
96344236
96184932
96459042
96435138
Removing the tension roller.
Remove the alternator belt as described.
Using a 15 socket with a knob or a spanner wrench, unscrew the roller bolt.
It should be borne in mind that the head of the bolt for unscrewing should be rotated counterclockwise.
Remove the roller.
If only the pulley is being replaced, install the pulley in reverse order and install the attachment drive belt as shown.
Removing the tensioner.
Loosen the top mounting bolt.
To do this, insert a 12 mm socket between the power steering pump and the air conditioning compressor from the radiator side. Very inconvenient, but doable.
You can try to use a 12 long head to unscrew this bolt.
Loosen the bottom mounting bolt.
It is located under the power steering pump mounting plate. For convenience, the bar itself can be removed.
You can try to unscrew the upper fastening bolt with a long head by 12 without removing the power steering pump mounting brackets.
Remove tensioner
Installation of a new tensioner assembly with a roller.
Note that the new tensioner has a locking pin. Do not remove it before installing the belt.
Install the tensioner by sliding it between the alternator and the engine mount or from below, from under the car.
Secure it with the upper and lower mounting bolts and reinstall the power steering pump mounting plate, if it was removed.
Put on a new belt.
Put on the belt strictly according to the scheme:
Put a 15 head with a knob on the tensioner bolt and fix the roller in this position, slightly turning the bolt clockwise, pull out the locking pin.
Slowly release the tensioner until the key is completely released.
The device will automatically tighten the belt.
After installation, make sure the belt is properly seated in all grooves.
The main condition for the normal functioning of the generator is the complete transmission of rotation from the motor. In order for this element to be able to generate the required amount of electricity, it must rotate at high speed.
In order for the transmission to be carried out properly, the generator must be tensioned. If it sags, the belt will slip on the pulleys, and if it is tightened, this will increase the wear rate of the bearings, the generator, the working surfaces of the pulley and the belt itself.
Therefore, the belt tension adjustment is structurally provided. Used to be on cars from the pulley crankshaft only one generator was driven into rotation, so the tension was adjusted by the generator itself.
In such cars there were two attachment points for the generator. With respect to one of them, this element could rotate, and the second point was an adjustment point. To tension the belt, it was enough to loosen the nut of the adjusting attachment point and pull the generator away from the engine, and then tighten the nut. This possibility of adjusting the tension is possible due to the fact that the crankshaft drives only the generator and the shape of the belt position is not complex in configuration, it is located only between two pulleys.
One of the generator drive circuits
On more modern cars, the amount of additional attachments has been added, which also received a drive from the crankshaft pulley. Such equipment includes a power steering pump and an air conditioning compressor. And since the drive of these two units, as well as the generator, is carried out by one belt, it will not work to adjust the tension of the drive element by the generator. The configuration of the belt position on such cars is very complex, since the belt already passes over four pulleys, while the equipment that it drives is located at different levels in relation to each other.
Video: Tensioner for alternator fret grant
Types of alternator belt tensioners
Therefore, in such cars, a special tension roller is used to tension the drive belt. In this type of drive, the generator is no longer movable, and the adjustment is performed by shifting this roller.
Such a roller is a conventional bearing, on the outer race of which there is a plastic lining, its surface is working - a belt moves along it. Inside the roller there is a landing sleeve.
By design, the rollers are of two types and they differ in the method of attachment and tension adjustment.
- One type is eccentric. This is a very simple design, in which there is nothing but a bearing, a plastic lining and a bushing. The sleeve has a through hole, which is offset to the side relative to the center of the roller. Through the hole, the roller is put on a special pin mounted on the engine. For tension, it is enough to turn the roller relative to the bolt.
- The second type of roller implies a bracket in the design. This design is somewhat more complicated, but at the same time it is the same in reliability as the eccentric version. On this bracket, the roller is fixed motionless. Fastening to the power plant of this design is made by means of bolts. Tension adjustment is carried out by moving the bracket relative to the engine.
Fastening the generator roller with a bracket
Some automakers use a spring-loaded roller. Such an element is self-adjusting, that is, the spring independently regulates the tension.
Whatever design the tension roller has, it has a weak point - the bearing. It constantly functions under load, and over time it wears out until it breaks completely. Therefore, it is recommended to change it every time the belt is replaced.
But often the rollers break even before replacement.
Signs of failure
There are several signs of problems in the operation of this element:
- the generator does not provide, or does not supply electricity from it to the on-board network at all;
- squeak from the location of the belt;
- increased hum;
- strong vibration of the roller or belt when the power plant is running;
- in the video;
- belt wear on one side;
It is worth noting that some signs are also inherent in malfunctions with the elements that actuate the roller. For example, a hum or squeak can also be the cause of wear on the bearings of the power steering pump, the air conditioning compressor, and the same generator.
Video: Repair of the generator belt tensioner pulley
Condition Diagnostics
Therefore, when any of the signs appear, it is also necessary to diagnose the state of all the indicated elements in order to identify which element is faulty. It is performed quite simply:
- The first step is to visually inspect the belt and the equipment it drives. To do this, just start the power plant and see if there is vibration of the belt and pulleys and roller;
- Then the alternator belt tension is checked. With the motor stopped at the largest span between the pulleys, you must take the belt and try to turn it clockwise. If, when twisting, it is possible to turn it 90 degrees, then it will be tensioned normally. If the angle of rotation is greater or less, adjustment is required;
- The next step is to remove the belt, assess its condition, and check for backlash on the pulleys and roller. Removing the belt is very simple - the tension roller nut is loosened to relieve the belt tension. After it is removed from the pulleys. But before that, you need to remember the position of the belt between the pulleys in order to correctly position it during installation. The belt should not have cracks or delaminations, its wear should be uniform. If at least one of these defects is noticed, the belt must be replaced. Particular attention should be paid to one-sided wear. If it is, then the bracket or roller stud is bent, which is why there is a misalignment. If it is not eliminated, then the new belt will not last long.
- Then the play on the pulleys is checked. You should also rotate the roller and make sure that there are no jamming and wedging of the roller. If there are any, this indicates severe bearing wear and the need to replace the roller. It is also worth inspecting the working surface of the plastic lining, it should be flat without any grooves. Otherwise, the roller changes.
- If, after changing the belt and roller, the hum and squeak remain, the problem lies in one of the elements driven by the belt.
Replacing the alternator belt pulley on the example of Chevrolet Lacetti
For clarity, consider how the belt and roller are replaced on a Chevrolet Lacetti car. On this car, a self-adjusting tension roller with a bracket is just installed.
Video: chevrolet lacetti (accessory belt replacement)
To change the belt and tensioner, you need a set of open-end wrenches and heads with knobs. The sequence of work is as follows:
- We dismantle the air filter housing from the engine to provide access to the belt;
- To get to the roller, you need to unscrew the power steering pump. And in order to get to the bolts securing it from the engine, we dismantle the protective screen of the exhaust manifold;
- After removing the screen, unscrew the bolts of the power steering pump and move it to the side to provide access to the roller. After unscrewing, you can remove the belt from its pulley. In this case, the pipes going to the pump do not need to be removed;
- Before unscrewing the roller, it must be moved to the mounting position. To do this, move the roller. Overcoming the force of the spring until the locking holes on the bracket body are aligned. Then we stop the roller in this position with a bolt or cotter pin, which is installed in the hole;
- We unscrew the bolts securing the roller bracket and it is removed. The new element must also be transferred to the installation position, then installed on the car and bolted;
It rustled under the hood at the 50th thousand ... A familiar story for many VW Polo Sedan. So I have something rustled in the area of \u200b\u200bthe accessory belt. I sin on rollers - I decided to order and change it myself. That's how noisy before replacing the rollers.
Of course, there are suspicions of a pump, but the first thing I decided to do was to change the rollers.
I washed the engine compartment with my AED and proceeded to replace it.
What you need for a hassle-free replacement: a cylinder wrench, a jack and a screwdriver - from a spare wheel, additionally - a 16 spanner wrench, a drill of about 3 or 4 mm or any other metal bar of this diameter to fix the tension roller spring.
1. For more convenient removal of the tension roller, I recommend not to be too lazy - jack up the right front wheel, remove it, remove the fender liner and the lower protective plastic apron using the tool from the standard spare tire kit - this provides unhindered access to the removal of the tension roller, located almost at the very bottom .
2. Using a 16 spanner wrench, we sit on the tension roller bolt and turn the key counterclockwise, overcoming the spring force - insert a blocking object (for example, a drill) into the tension roller hole to fix the spring and loosen the belt. If there is a need, we remove the belt, I have a belt in good condition - it still looks like it.
3. Now we remove the tensioner roller itself - unscrew its bolt - LEFT THREAD (to unscrew it - turn the key clockwise) and remove the bolt together with the roller.
4. Then we unscrew the bolt of the bypass roller with the same ring spanner - from the side of the engine compartment - RIGHT THREAD (to unscrew - turn the key counterclockwise). The bypass roller bolt is long and the roller is difficult to remove - since the bolt rests on the spar. The problem is solved simply - after the roller there is an iron bushing - we unscrew it, move the roller and everything is removed without problems.
This is how the removed tension and bypass rollers look like.
We check the condition of the rollers - we open the anthers of the bearings - dry! almost no lubrication, especially in the bypass roller.
In principle, these rollers can still serve if they are washed and re-lubricated, but there is no way to get rid of the backlash, except to replace the bearings, but they are soldered into plastic rollers - it is easier to replace the assembly completely. For reference: marking on native bearings: 6203, made in Poland.
I did not buy native rollers for two reasons: the tension roller is assembled with a spring, I see absolutely no point in changing the assembly assembly, the second reason is the price. Native rollers are much more expensive when there are analogues that are no worse in terms of characteristics and price.
As a result, analogues of Italian and domestic production were ordered, a bypass roller: PTP1523 firm Pilenga, price 352 rubles and tension roller GAZ, article 405241308080 , price 180 rubles. The bypass roller comes with a cap - which in our case is not useful.
OE part numbers for reference: 03C145299C- tension assembly and 1J0145276B- bypass.
Well, just in case, I checked the presence of lubrication in both rollers - everything is normal.
To completely cut off doubts about the correctness of the selection of analogues, we compare the geometric dimensions of the rollers.
It can be seen with the naked eye that the tension rollers are identical in inner and outer diameters, only the bypass roller is slightly smaller in outer diameter - but not critical.
If we compare the rollers in width, then the analogues are about 2 mm wider - also not scary.
5. We put the new rollers in their places and assemble everything in the reverse order. We check the correct installation of the belt - so that all the grooves match and then remove the stopper from the tensioner.
We start the car to check the noise ... eeee ...
… Iiiii hear that nifiga replacement did not give anything :)))) The pump is definitely noisy! Yoptel-shmoptel, however, the replacement of the rollers was still necessary due to bearing play and dried grease. It is also clear to the hedgehog that my next post will be about the pump :))) Good luck in operation and repair, I hope the experience will come in handy for someone.
Issue price: 532 ₽ Mileage: 52200 km
To feel much more confident behind the wheel, it is necessary not only to have an idea about the structure of the car, but also to be able, if necessary, to perform certain manipulations with its components, for example, change the wheel, and so on.
Replacing the alternator tensioner pulley is not the easiest task at first glance, but this is only at first glance. If you understand, there is nothing complicated in this process.
But having mastered the skills of carrying out this operation, you can save a large amount that would be required when handling the corresponding repair at the service station.
Why do I need to replace the alternator belt tensioner?
We all know that the engine of a car is the heart of the car. iron horse. And the function of the engine is not only that the car just drove.
Lift the hood, and you will see that the car's engine is hung with a lot of very different devices. These devices cope with their functions only because they are "powered" by the engine.
Now look at the front of the engine. The crankshaft has a three-row pulley (it can be both single-row and double-row), it is connected by a soft belt drive with:
- cooling system pump,
- air conditioning,
- power steering wheel,
- generator,
- gas distribution mechanism.
The performance of almost each of the listed devices is simply impossible without a generator. - this is another source of energy, and stable operation of this source is impossible without the necessary belt tension.
The degree of tension of this belt in modern cars just regulates the alternator belt pulley, so replacing the alternator belt tension pulley is a very important and sometimes extremely necessary procedure.
The main aspects of replacing the alternator belt tensioner pulley.
Currently, there are several modifications of the generator tension rollers, the simplest of them is a roller with an offset center. The tension of the belt in it occurs during the rotation of the eccentric, and fixation - with the help of a bolt.
Another option involves installing the roller on a movable bracket, here the bolt already acts not as a retainer, but as a belt tensioning tool.
An example of the location of the tension roller on the Fiat Palio 2V:
- driving pulley
- flat washer
- drive belt
- video clip
- tension roller adjustable
Be that as it may, it is necessary to monitor the serviceability of the tension roller in any of its modifications. And if malfunctions are found, the roller should be replaced.
Video.
Replacing the alternator belt rollers is a standard procedure that you can do yourself. This article provides detailed instructions on how to replace a Chevrolet Niva car.
Reasons for failure
Before moving on to the signs and solution of a breakdown, it is worth talking about possible reasons failure, and how they are expressed:
-
Entry of a foreign body.
This is most likely evidenced by impact marks on the case and marks on the flat side of the belt. -
Incorrect belt tension adjustment - excessively strong or weak.
In this case, the tension indicator, tensioner cover or its limiter breaks. This can be caused by incorrect bolt tightening or incorrect sizing. - Work in high temperature.
-
Part twist.
Because of this, belt marks can be seen on its surface. - Mechanical damage from tools during installation.
By what signs to recognize a malfunction
A number of signs indicate the need to replace old rollers with new ones. They appear both directly during the ride, in extraneous noise as well as visual inspection.
Replacement is necessary if:
- Mechanical damage on the surface of the rollers;
- Noticeable backlash;
- Grinding noises when turning. This is a clear sign that the car needs repair;
- Damaged bracket or bearing;
- Leaking oil;
- High temperature during operation;
- Strong vibration during operation;
- Difficulty in turning the shaft.
It will not be superfluous to also check the serviceability of the belt. It should not have cracks, cuts or delaminate. If it is defective, then it must be replaced.
Sequence of work, 1 - removal of faulty parts.
The first step is to prepare the generator for the repair and replacement process. To do this, remove the old parts. For this you will need wrenches diameter 10 and 17.
1. First of all, you need to loosen the belt and remove it, otherwise you will not have access to the bearings themselves. To do this, loosen the roller, which is held by a platform with nuts. There are three nuts, they need a 10 wrench. Once they are all unscrewed, you need to unscrew the adjusting screw so that it moves up from the platform. Thanks to this, the section with rollers and belts will move freely up and down. In order to throw off the belt, move the platform up. It is also worth noting that it is not necessary to remove the belt completely - it is enough to lower it from a faulty part.
2. The next step is to remove the faulty rollers:
- Set the car to first gear in order to prevent crankshaft turn around;
- Unscrew the nut that secures the part
- Take out spring washer and remove the item.
The process of removing the generator rollers on a Chevrolet Niva is identical to any other car.
